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Rest Day with 155-year-old Man
Karmading Base Camp, Kondus Valley - Sunday, July 9, 2000

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Chin


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We spend another day on the ground resting. We are all feeling better. After a morning of lying around lazily reading and dozing off for short naps, Brady, Dave, and I try to find something to entertain ourselves. Steph isn't taking any chances with her convalescence and has resolved to stay in her tent until the minute we go back up on Tahir Tower.

We had been hearing rumors from the local villagers of a 155-year-old man that resides in Khorkondas. After expressing our disbelief and making one or two jokes about what a 155-year-old man might look like, we decide to make our way up valley — 155 years old...yeah right??!!

We wind our way through the maze of paths and water ways towards the utopic looking village. Waterfalls stream down the walls into lush green, terraced fields, wild flowers everywhere, huge white capped mountains and rock towers make up a surreal backdrop. Zahid, our guide leads the way. The villagers are beginning to get used to our presence, but still gawk at Brady, the blonde giant.

We are led up a ladder and into a dark musty smelling room. We stop with the jokes and quiet down as our curiosity is piqued. I squint for a moment trying to let my eyes adjust to the dim lighting coming through the thatched roof. A small movement near the corner of the room catches our attention and we all squint harder to see. I swallow hard as Dave and Brady let out slight gasps. A little head pokes out from underneath a bunch of blankets that are laid on a pile of straw. A small gnarled hand with long finger nails reaches out to us. We all take a step back and look at each other. We are a bit afraid and not sure what to do. He looks so fragile we were afraid to speak for fear that sound would be enough to push him over the edge. We are no longer the loud careless group we had been moments before. We are in the presence of someone ancient and try to maintain the most respectful composure we can muster.

Eventually, Zahid brakes the silence and asks if we have any questions for him. Hmmmmm... what to ask the oldest man in the world? We scratch our heads and try to make some small talk. The man is named Abdul Kareem and he is not 155 - he corrects Zahid and tells him he is 160. We all had a hard time believing he was a 155, but looking at him now, we all agree he looks 155. I am surprised at the strength of the voice coming from the small body. We all relax a bit as we hear a small chuckle come from Abdul.

Zahid seems to be the only one capable of functioning at the moment and asks Abdul about what religions have come through the valley in the last 150 years. Abdul talks for a while and Zahid explains that Abdul is a Sufi. Zahid then asks him how many children he has. Abdul had eight sons and he had outlived all eight, one 80-year-old daughter survives.

Finally, I think of something to ask. "Zahid, please ask him what he remembers as his best moment in life."

Abdul's answer is short. Zahid turns to tell us, "He say, 'Right now, always now.'"

I raise an eyebrow and look at Brady and Dave. We smile and nod our heads, "Good answer, yeah, that's a pretty good answer."

We thank him for his time, leave him a nice Patagonia fleece jacket and 500 rupees to hopefully help carry him through the winter. We are all psyched about our rest day visit and head home a bit more enlightened.

Jimmy Chin, MountainZone.com Correspondent

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