DISPATCHES

Chin

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Yesterday morning, Steph and I jugged up to the base of what looked like an awesome handcrack. We were both psyched and Steph took off running. When she slowed down in terrain that looked a lot easier than stuff she normally solos, I began to wonder what was wrong. "Take!!!! *#!%#$*^@%#!! Send up my aiders!"

I was a bit surprised but I complied. When she finished aiding the crack and I headed up to clean the pitch I realized why she had aided the pitch. What looked like solid rock was actually layers upon layers of rotten flakes. Even weighting large cams in these cracks is scary. Anything you placed for gear could rip out.

My lead looked pretty rotten, but straightforward. Without thinking too much, I headed up the crack hoping to get it done with. With every move, a shower of rock and dust would fill my eyes, nose and ears. Hmmmm, this is pleasant. I was in a rush to get through when I high stepped on what I thought was a really good piece. It wasn't. A centimeter of rock on both sides of the crack ripped out and the next moment I was flailing through the air face first. I bounced off a ledge and finally felt the rope catch me. A bit stunned and not altogether very happy, I went over my body with a mental checklist. I could hear Steph through a bit of a haze and she sounded pretty worried. When I looked down at her she made a not so pleasant face at me.

"You're bleeding...." I hung in space for a while trying to gather myself, and eventually I did. I finished the pitch in a bit of a daze. Steph jugged up and said "Jimmy, you look like shit!" I tried to lighten the situation by pretending I was Igor, but Steph's only reaction was, "Jimmy, you're scaring me, you should go down NOW!"

When I got back to camp, Dave, Brady and Steph fussed about and did everything they could to make me comfortable. I felt like I was in the world's greatest ER; Brady washing my face and putting on ointment, Dave telling bad jokes, Steph stuffing chocolate and water in my face. I was very happy to be in their company and care. After I assured them numerous times that I was fine, they finally relaxed a bit and our evening ritual of hanging out, eating chocolate, listening to music and watching the moon rise commenced.

Today, I look like a got in a bar fight... and lost, but otherwise I am fine. We have all been reminded that we need to stay focused 'cause gravity never sleeps.

— Jimmy Chin, MountainZone.com Correspondent

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