Climber
Boulder, CO
Age: 47

A veteran Himalayan climber, Bearzi, 47, of Boulder, Colorado, brings tremendous experience and a confident, low-key demeanor to the team's climbing leadership. In early 1990s, as one of the most prominent pioneers of modern mixed climbing, Bearzi invented the "M system," a widely accepted method of ranking mixed climbs. In 1986, he did the first free ascent of Cerro Torre, on its West Face. He also has been to Everest three times, in 1992, 1993 and 1995, including two alpine-style attempts on the North Face and its Great Couloir Route without oxygen or any support. In 1993, he went to Everest with Paul Teare. In 1995 it was with Robert Anderson. Each time they were stopped by bad weather, since the climbs were monsoon attempts in summer.

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He also has put up new routes in Alaska, and climbed Alaska's Devil's Thumb and Mt. Burkett in 1981. He started climbing along Colorado's Front Range in 1976. He and his wife, Renee, have no children, and he has worked as a master craftsman and carpenter for many years. On three occasions, he has written book reviews for the American Alpine Club. Though it is not a new route, K2's North Ridge held an attraction for Bearzi because of its remoteness and "magnificent line" that "epitomizes" the essence of Himalayan adventures.