DISPATCHES

Ziel

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A major task for K2000 was to clear Chinese customs, an onerous task that involved having over 100 pieces of luggage individually X-rayed and reloaded onto Chinese trucks. It took most of a morning in the hot sun. Maybe it was just good fortune or the friendly game of basketball we lost to the Chinese customs people, but we had no complaints. It seemed most prudent to not ask why we were not asked to pay the expected heavy 19% import duty on consumables. Meanwhile Heidi and Greg crossed into China early on the morning of the 28th and literally caught up with K2000 as the team was leaving customs and ready to drive on to Kashgar.

North of the border, the KKH winds its way down valleys and gorges to the plains of Kashgar. The team was treated to views of Mustagh Ata (7546 m) and Kongur (7719 m) as well as now-legal beer (there is permanent prohibition in Pakistan). The views of these great mountains, not to mention some Chinese libation, was ample compensation for the time spent driving many days in a crowded bus. Finally at the Pamir Hotel in Kashgar the entire team was linked up with the last elements of our entourage: our liaison officer and interpreter.

May 29 for K2000 was a reprieve from our tedious road work. Jeff led a contingent to the Kashgar markets for perishable supplies. Wayne and his able crew of porters and K2000 members ordered the loads and prepared them for the walk in with our camels. Heidi and crew got the satellite phone working and email dispatches up to date. Fred and the "LO" (who are both HAM radio operators) met with a contingent of Chinese HAMs in anticipation of a K2000 first; operating world-wide short wave radio from K2 Base Camp with the call sign BT0QGL (A "thank you" goes to the ICOM radio company).

Nevertheless, most all of the K2000 members did take a break from expedition work to see some of Kashgar's main attractions. Posing with the largest statue of Chairman Mao did not hold a candle to swimming in the sea of humanity that comes to Kashgar to shop every week. The Sunday Bazaar has been a tradition since the days of the "Silk Road." Every week the market section of town turns into the most exotic collection of pomp, people, products, and produce. This is a feast for all of the senses that words alone can't do justice too.

It has not all been a bed of roses and K2000 has suffered some medical casualties. Most all of us have had one version of gastrointestinal or respiratory illness so far. "GI" problems are the most popular. "Montezuma's Revenge," "Delhi belly," "Pindi plague," and "Kashgar crud" are terms that don't do justice to some of the symptoms we've had. Eating in restaurants on the road can't offer complete control over how clean the stuff you eat actually is. You can't simply avoid every questionable "Road-Kill Cafe" you come to. Ultimately, the cook at the cleanest restaurant still has control over your bowels.

The trucks and jeeps haven't been immune to their unique illnesses either. One alternator, fan belt, and tire have "bit the dust" already. Percentage-wise I think that the trucks are doing better than the K2000 members are with illnesses. More good reasons we are eager to start our approach walk into K2 Base Camp.

May 30 saw the K2000 team on the road again to the ancient desert city of Yaukland (aka Yecheng). Thankfully for us it was a relatively easy day on the road. For others, a head-on bus collision and car that rolled off the road, added some element of sobriety to the lack of open container laws in China. "Please tell that driver he should only try to pass one car when there is oncoming traffic." The anxiety stops when we hit town though. The CMA runs a hotel here for climbers and tourists. It's a good place to celebrate our last night in civilization; tomorrow we drive the last 12 hours to the trail head.

Without asking, the drivers have been out under the hoods of their jeeps tinkering, adjusting and replacing. I saw a tire being changed, a new fan belt go on, and two 55 gallon barrels of extra gas go onto one truck. They tell us the road ahead to Mazardara is rough, not always open all the way, and could add days of walking to our approach. Jay has been to this side of K2 before and has memories of digging his truck out of the sand. All sounds appropriate for a desert called the Taklamakan which apparently translates roughly to: "if you go in you may not come out." Tomorrow and tomorrow and tomorrow...

— Fred Ziel, MountainZone.com Correspondent

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