DISPATCHES

Alzner

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Greetings from K2000! This is Jeff Alzner calling from Advanced Base Camp on the north side of K2. It is June 23, and we are at 16,300 feet on the Chinese side of the mountain. We are living in a partially stocked ABC and have already climbed to within 100 meters of the spot where Camp 1 will likely be carved into the face.

Considering the amount of effort it has taken our 18-member team to carry loads up from the lower elevations, it is quite fortunate that we have over 2000 feet of the route already in place. The entire route will take as much as 16,000 feet of rope.

We have been in this area for over a month, but tonight is the first meal that all members got to sit down together in view of the mountain that we're all working towards. It has been a challenge to keep the food supplies on hand and carry up the climbing gear at the same time.

Climbing this side of K2 does not provide a benefit of having all of the supplies delivered by Pakistani porters, as you would on the south side of K2. Instead, the camels, camel drivers and eight Pakistani porters carry to within 12 kilometers of Advanced Base Camp. What this means to the climbing team is that we must pick out only the priority loads to go up to ABC during the first 10 days or so.

What gear takes priority? The answer is climbing rope, ice screws, pickets and pitons, of course, and maybe some ice tools and crampons. This route up the North Ridge is so long and difficult that one cannot afford to miss a single day of climbing. Only snowfall halts the progress because of the avalanche danger.

Having only ropes and no food at ABC creates its own problems, so anyone not putting the ropes up spends his or her days carrying food supplies up from the camps below ABC. Such is the strategy this week on the American K2 North Ridge Expedition. K2000, over and out.

— Jeff Alzner, MountainZone.com Correspondent

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