DISPATCHES

Ziel

Since I am prominently mentioned in Terry Richard's most recent article about the "Portland" K2 expedition, I feel it is necessary to expand on the content of the article to enhance the accuracy of what was presented in reference to my relationship with Jeff Alzner. Indeed we had a row on the radio and I was quoted. Unfortunately, part of my quote in reference to his leadership qualities was not included: "Jeff is like a colonel in the field, in action, with his regiment; some of his command decisions will not be popular."

I have been happily married for 20 years. I have known and climbed with Jeff Alzner for 20 years. I have had and expect to have in the future disagreements with both my wife and Jeff. It is simply in the nature of any long-term interpersonal relationships. I expect to remain married to the same woman for the rest of my life and, in the same fashion, expect to call Jeff Alzner a close friend for the rest of my life.

This is my eighth Himalayan expedition. Six of those trips have been with Jeff. In 1986, Jeff nursed me through a case of pneumonia in the Annapurna Sanctuary. In 1987, Jeff helped me descend the NE ridge of Ama Dablam with a severely sprained ankle through one of the worst post-monsoon storms on record in the Himalayas. My wife has given me four wonderful children. I owe both more than I can accurately put in words.

Jeff's leadership role (not climbing role) on this expedition is new to him. He has successfully gotten a large group of people, and tons of equipment, halfway around the world to their climbing objective. When Sir Christian Bonington was learning the expedition leadership role, on the fabulously successful Annapurna South Face Expedition, he found that there were interpersonal conflicts vis-à-vis who on the team would work on what part of the mountain and when. He too had rows on the radio with his highly motivated, talented, and individualistic (sometimes selfish) team members on the best way to coordinate the climb. They climbed the mountain. They all went home good friends.

Like ANY large expedition we will have and, in a sense, are entitled to our own disagreements and free license to settle them to best meet our climbing objectives. The exact words and content of our discussions is a "private family matter."

— Frederick Ziel, MountainZone.com Correspondent

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