DISPATCHES

Alzner

We followed the logical way that would become the route to Camp I. It began at the Shark's Fin rock and led up beneath a serac that guarded the way to the upper slope. We preferred to avoid climbing under a serac but in this case it was unavoidable. After starting to the right side, an avalanche fell from the more dangerous seracs at above right, so we decided to climb up the left side.

This was indeed the safer way. We placed Camp I in a crevasse that we carved out to make a ledge. Spin-drift crushed the tents, the ledge filled in. We dug into the crevasse laterally and formed a narrow cave 30-feet deep. What was once a nightmare ledge is now a gourmet cave with an entrance hallway.

Of course, we've had to wait 24 days in bad weather at ABC to earn the right to sleep in the cave. One month has passed since the first day we put on crampons, and Camp II was still out of reach due to avalanche danger a few hundred meters below its proposed location.

But a determined Japanese foursome pushed ahead in marginal weather and got us all moving upward. Soon all four teams broke through the deep snow and cached gear for a Camp II, but the weather was still bad and we returned to ABC for a wait and look-see.

We couldn't wait any longer. Was the sky going to clear? On K2 it is anyone's guess. Better to head up, and if it did go to hell then we could retreat. If it cleared up, we needed to be at Camp 1... in the cave... in position.

We did the right thing. The sky cleared. The barometer was rising. Good for us. Good for everybody.

We finally were allowed to establish Camp 2 and sleep there. The next morning we fixed 800 meters of rope toward Camp 3. Everyone was full of energy and astounded by the view from the ridge at 7000 meters. So much of each of our own personal power, patience and drive has been spent getting this far, and there is a long way to go towards the summit.

The weather was perfect that day. Would it hold another day or two... or three... or four... or...?

We woke up to sun again! We put in ropes a bit past Camp 3 and cached two tents at the site of Camp 3. We are tired now but have moved quickly during the three days of sun that the mountain has allowed us. If only we were super human and did not need to acclimate, we could move up NOW. But alas, the decision to rest in ABC for a couple of days is the smart one.

But now the Tibetans have gone up to Camp 2 to continue to establish Camp 3. Good for them. We hoped the weather would hold because our success depends on the efforts of all the teams combined. Unfortunately, the snow came back and the Tibetans are now stuck at Camp 2 in deep snow and heavy winds.

What next?

Stay tuned for that.

— Jeff Alzner, MountainZone.com Correspondent

Email this story to a friend