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Exposure on a Knife-Edge Ridge
Above the Arrowhead - Monday, July 10, 2000

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Mazur
Mazur

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Hi, this is Daniel Mazur. We're up here on the Mustagh Ata First Ascent. We're up on the ridge around 6000 meters. It's snowing really hard. Today was a really hard day, a lot of exposed climbing and some really bad traversing on some really bad avalanche slopes. It's been a pretty tough climb so far, but it just seems like our team is hanging together really good with Walter, and John, and myself and we're keeping our fingers crossed.

We got a view up the ridge today; we could see where we have to go tomorrow. There's a lot of clouds blowing around, and, like I said, it's snowing really hard right now. Last night we were...didn't get to camp until 8 o'clock, so we just had this little ledge kind of hacked out with our ice axes, and half the tent was hanging down the slope.

It was a little bit scary, but tonight, we have a good camp. We stopped a little early tonight, at 5 o'clock. We got a really nice plateau up here. We decided that the ridge looks kind of like a serpent, so I guess we decided to name it the "Dragon Ridge," right where we are, because it's windy as hell and has all these lines, and that's what we're gonna be doing, the next couple days, is going up and down on all these snow cornices and, hopefully, we'll be able to get into position before time runs out. We still have, like, five or six days left, so, we're cool.

Our food's hanging out okay, fuel—we have enough fuel. Our equipment is definitely taking a beating, lots of wear and tear on the tent and clothing and stuff, so we're hoping that it all hangs in there. That's all for me, Dan, but I'm gonna pass the phone over to somebody...Walter? Do you want to say something? [Laughter]

Jon Otto
Hi, this is John Otto, and...we have nothing to say! No, it was exciting, climbing today, because we got popped up on the knife-edge ridge and got exposure to the other side of the ridge and got great views of the glacier there and the headwall. It was 13,300 feet or 1300 meters down, almost straight down on one side, and we're here on this knife-edge ridge, so it was really exciting climbing.

But now we're safe in the tent and cooking some noodles, and I guess that's all. Walter, would you like to say something?

Walter Keller
No.

Okay, I hope that we can finish that email, the computer has no power, phone has no power, if we get some sun, we'll get some power. Hope to talk to you soon. Bye now. Thank you very much.

Dan Mazur and Jon Otto, MountainZone.com Correspondents

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