Cathy Tibbetts

Except we have been in Kathmandu for three days and haven't seen any mountains. The air is that bad.

The Tourist Office says forest fires in the Terai are causing the smog. Most seem to think the government is making up the story to cover up a serious air pollution problem.

"The only forest fires are those coming out of exhaust pipes," remarked Wish Gdula, a Pole returning to the Mt. Everest Marathon for the 6th time.

Cybercafes Abound

But that's progress. There now seem to be as many cybercafes dotting the sidewalks as trekking agencies.

Not that anybody is complaining. Blanket of grey or not, at least we're here. Royal Nepal Airlines is on strike and all flights are cancelled. The Swiss runners are still in London. Professional Triathlete/Double Ironman Champ Sergio Cordeiro of Brazil is stuck in New Delhi. American Adventure Racer Jan Richardson is stranded in Bangkok. It doesn't look good for the unfortunate few holding Royal Nepal Airlines tickets, but maybe they'll catch up later.

Tomorrow starts the trek into the Khumbu — and into clean air.

— Cathy Tibbetts, Mountain Zone Correspondent

MARATHON DISPATCHES