Saari

All questions from the inquisitive new guy. All answered with the utmost patience.

But then there is payback. Alex says, 'Hey, this mon wants to buy Tiger Balm!' and the locals flock in hordes begging me for the sale. 'My friend,' they say, 'lowest price.' I can only laugh and walk away.

Alex and Conrad have this place wired: where to get the haircut-massage combo; how to get the best deal on embroidering a dragon on the back of a fleece jacket; and where to find the coldest beer.

Strategy Meeting

When we entered the Kathmandu airport, Conrad said, 'When entering the kingdom, you must replace your third vertebrae with a piece of foam.' What the hell does that mean?

After three days here I know. When you order momos (Tibetan wontons), the waiters say, 'okay,' and walk away in worm speed, with their heads bobbing like a Muppet. A half hour later, the food arrives: 'No problem, my friend.' When you ask why everyone has shut their shops for an unknown strike, heads bob and only smiles reply. The pace of life is slow and everyone is always grinning. When you are haggling with a street vendor over some overpriced carved elephant and you come in at 30% of their original offer, they laugh with a genuine ho-ho-ho and say, 'Now really my friend, what is your best price?' their heads bobbing like Big Bird, smiling like Bert. Now we all are talking to each other with floppy necks, 'Have another beer my friend.' We have all the time in the world.

The air quality here is grim. But because of the strike, all the taxis and bus drivers took the day off, and we were able to go on a reasonable bike ride. We rode bikes today to Bhaktapur, an ancient temple site. Five miles weaving in and out of traffic with the worst of bikes. The bicycle threatened to disintegrate with each brick-filled pothole, adding adventure to the whole experience. After an hour of spinning, my throat felt dry and my lungs felt like they were filled with tar. Great acclimatization for Shishapangma, huh? But what are we to do while we wait to leave? The group is twitching with anticipation.

We are a long way from Montana. This is just the beginning.

— Hans Saari, MountainZone.com Correspondent

EXPEDITION DISPATCHES