Saari

Holbrook

Hans Saari
We had our first day of acclimatization. The group headed up to the top of a 14,000 foot knoll to check out the view of Shishapangma. The weather was blue bird, but our sense of direction was not up to par. It was difficult to tell which mountain was which, and since none of us brought a map there was much confusion.

The view was spectacular. To the south is a cluster of pointed peaks, which look like Chamonix. To the west the snow-capped peaks towered above 20,000 feet and all around the dry plateau they stretched as far as we could see. On the summit of our hill I juggled karmic rocks for good luck, while the rest of the crew resurrected prayer flags which had fallen into the dirt.

Conrad and I had an interesting discussion about climbing at 8,000 meters. He said it feels like being in a sphere of gel, which resists movement slowing you down to a sluggish crawl with death all around you. I can only imagine what he means by this, but it set my imagination off once again. He said that going to 7,000 meters would rock our boats. Yikes. Go slow, go slow, go slow.

Back in Nyalam, we are engaged in the game of hide your belongings. According to the Dave, Conrad and Alex, you have to watch your stuff. It's all a big game.

Mark aka LRG, Little Red Guy, is really excited. We have been pulling out the pulse oximeter to check the reading at least three times a day. Everyone is at 90 or so. Andrew, our most glorious and fearless leader has been dealing with sherpas and trucks. He is noticeably excited too.

LRG aka Mark Holbrook
It looks like Hans covered the morning acclimatization hike. The other activity that has kept us occupied is eating. Here in Nyalam, we are staying and eating at the Snow Land Lodge. The food is mostly of the Chinese variety with a lot of rice and various meat and vegetable dishes. Some of our favorites include yak and sauteed onion, ginger peas, and french fries! The main crop, of the Nyalam area, are small new potatoes and the fries are some of the best we have tasted — salty, too.

I visited our proprietors home and had salt boiled potatoes with hot red chili sauce. They also eat this small red fruit called rose hip. It tastes a lot like crab apples. Hans' quote of every hour has been, "Mo Mo," which means that he is always hungry and that he really has a craving for the tasty little Tibet treats called momos. They have not served them here in Nyalam, but we have talked to our sherpa cook, Ung Kami, and he has assured us that there will be plenty in Base Camp.

— Hans Saari and Mark Holbrook, MountainZone.com Correspondents

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