Expedition Dispatches
Satellite phone updates from the 1998 American Everest Expedition


Wilson
The Sherpa as Stone Mason
Wednesday, April 15, 1998 — Base Camp (17,500')


Rock construction in base camp
[click to zoom]
(photo: Wilson)
Base camp is nothing more than a pile of scattered rocks that have crashed down from the walls high above. It is chaos, at least until the Sherpas arrive. They are quick to establish order and build an expedition base camp using nothing more than rocks, tarps, and ropes in constructing kitchens, latrines, shower stalls, tent platforms, and altars for pujas. The Incas had nothing on these guys.

Shortly after our arrival at base camp, we found ourselves staring dumbfounded at the heap of rocks before us. We needed a four foot by six foot rock platform to mount our solar panels, but we wondered how in the world could we possibly build one out of this mess of rock before us. The platform had to be bombproof.
Streaming Video
A look at base camp
(video: Burleson)
REAL MEDIA
modem speed
(28k) (56k) (T1)
RealPlayer
NetShow
modem speed
(28k) (56k) (T1)
NetShow
It would be supporting the heart of our expedition, the solar panels, the power source for our satellite phone and computer — our link to the outside world.

A few of us were kicking a couple of rocks around, as well as a few ideas, trying to figure out the best approach when a few of our Sherpas strolled by. They casually asked what we were up to, and we explained the need for a solid base support for the panels. The Sherpas rolled up their sleeves and quickly, quietly, went to work. They plucked rocks decisively from the jumbled pile surrounding us and simply dropped them into place. Every rock seemed to fit.

Eric Simonson with a chorten for Rob Hall just below base camp
[click to zoom]
There was a rhythm to their work. It was efficient and appeared effortless. We could only stand by helplessly, watching these masters at work. It was if they were solving a jigsaw puzzle, one they'd mastered long ago. And, in a sense, they had.

Stone has been used by these people for ages. Walking up the Khumbu Valley en route to base camp the construction is constant. Men work with chisels and hammers building lodges, tea shops, houses, and fences. Artists create chortens and mani stones. Stone serves as a foundation for their way of life. The Khumbu is natural quarry and, naturally, the valley's people have realized this gift, a seemingly endless supply of stone. The stone found in the Khumbu lends itself to construction as it is easy to split and very easy to stack; mortar is not used. It is an art, and the Sherpas have perfected this art, the art of stone.

Greg Wilson, Climber

DISPATCHES