The Lhotse Face in the early morning. For Western climbers, this is one of the harder days of climbing. No oxygen and an ascent from 21,500' (Camp II) to 23,500' (Camp III). Most of us low-landers are happy to stop here and call it a day, whereas the Sherpas would never dream of the same. The elite climbing Sherpa carries loads directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col at 26,000'. As I write we have just finished our acclimatization run to Camp III, where the goal was to spend two nights without oxygen. However, the next time we go there, we will use oxygen to sleep, so as to be well rested for the climb to the Col the next day. — Charles Corfield