 Potterfield
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The Return to Everest Saturday, March 29, 1997
It's been almost a year since one of the deadliest storms in Mount
Everest's history claimed the lives of eight climbers. The summit-day
tragedy on Mount Everest last May affirmed in a shocking way the risks
faced by those who venture into the so called death zone on Asia's high
peaks. But already a new season of climbing is beginning on the world's
highest peak. Today I joined a handful of climbers who from all over the
United States have been converging on Los Angeles in recent days to board
Thai Airway's Flight 771 to Bangkok and on to Kathmandu. It's a new year,
and Everest beckons just as strongly as before.
Yet the events of last spring will never be forgotten, only absorbed into
experience and carried along, somehow, by those touched by the tragedy.
On May 10, 1996, a sudden storm slammed into the upper slopes of
29,028-foot Mount Everest, catching more than a dozen people above the
sanctuary of their highest camp at the South Col. In the grim night-time
hours that followed, climbers, guides and clients all over the upper
mountain were pinned down without shelter or supplemental oxygen in
blizzard conditions. By noon the following day, the unbelievable toll was
in: the storm had killed 8 people, including famous big-mountain guides
Rob Hall and Scott Fischer.
Scott was a friend of mine -- he figured prominently in my last book, In
the Zone -- and his untimely death affected me viscerally, emotionally. It
raised once again the question I had long since stopped asking -- why do
people climb? In the next few weeks I hope to shed a little light on that
subject as I accompany Todd Burleson and his Alpine Ascents International
1997 Everest Expedition to the mountain. I'll linger a few weeks at base
camp before leaving the climbers to their sobering challenge when I
return to work in Seattle as editor of The Mountain Zone.
Todd Burleson -- who with guide Pete Athans figured prominently in helping
last May's survivors down from the high camp -- will this year be focused on science. Burleson, Wally Berg and Charles Corfield will once again
help the Boston Museum of Science dean of mountains, Brad Washburn,
measure movement of the mountain itself. It's an interesting experiment,
involving both GPS technology and laser-based measurement of great precision. Coupled
with the difficulties of just getting where they need to be, their goal
is a sobering one. [Click here for a detailed look at the science to be done on Everest this year.]
Others will also be on Everest this year. Among them:
- Americans Ed Viesturs, Dave Breashears and Pete Athans will be climbing
the mountain while making a film on high-altitude physiology for NOVA.
- Anatoli Boukreev, the Russian climber who as a member of Fischer's team
last year made repeated solo forays into last May's storm to bring
climbers to safety, will lead a team of Indonesian climbers in an attempt
on the summit this year.
- Adventure Consultants, Ltd., the company founded by Rob Hall, will once
again venture to Everest with a climbing team under the direction of new
owner Guy Cotter.
- A well-heeled Malaysian national expedition will be on the mountain in
force.
In short, it's going to be another busy year on the world's highest
mountain. The Mountain Zone will show you a side of high-altitude
climbing you may not have seen before as we follow Burleson's team higher
on the mountain. In doing so, we hope to share a little of all the other
activity on Everest as well.
So join us over the next few weeks as the climbers regroup in Kathmandu,
then make their way slowly toward the mountain. (More
slowly than before in fact, as the Russian helicopters that over the past few years have flown climbers directly to Shyangboche have been declared
uncertified for passengers, which means everybody is back to taking the
Twin Otters into Lukla and walking a day and a half to reach Namche.)
In fact, things are never predictable on Mount Everest, which is probably
why it generates so much interest.
-- Peter Potterfield, Mountain Zone Correspondent
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