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Everest 97 NAVBAR
DISPATCHES FROM EVEREST
Team Scientist Freddy Blume reports from Everest
Team AAI on Their Second Summit Bid
Saturday, May 24, 1997 -- 9:45am PST; 11pm Nepal


Blume

Climbers start a summit bid on the Triangular Face above the South Col photographed here in '94.
[Click for bigger image]
At 11:00pm, under clear, moonlit skies, with winds absolutely calm, the five members and eight Sherpas of the Alpine Ascents team, left the South Col 8,000 meters (26,300') for the summit. As opposed to yesterday when Todd reported unusual weather which led to an abortive trip up high, conditions tonight are forecast to be ideal.

Our London based satellite weather forecast has predicted a slow northward movement of the jet-stream away from us, which means diminishing winds and stable skies. For tomorrow, the forecast for the summit elevation is for winds of 30 to 35 knots (10 to 15 less than yesterday), and temperatures of -30°F, which sounds extreme by normal standards, is easy to prepare for with proper equipment. The temperature at Camp IV on the South Col is usually about 20 degrees warmer than on the summit.

Todd Burleson, Wally Berg, Charles Corfield, Eric Simonson, and Greg Wilson, all spent a relaxing day at Camp IV, occasionally breathing oxygen, drinking lots of fluids, and getting physically and mentally prepared for the effort tonight: an eight to ten hour climb to the the summit of the highest peak in the world.

Wally Berg spent a good part of the day documenting potential GPS survey points and dismantling the 1996 University of Colorado weather station installation at the South Col which had been rendered inoperable by both extremely high winds (which destroyed the anemometer assembly), and the theft of the solar panel (which rendered the electronics powerless).

All members and Sherpas reported feeling good both physically and mentally, although the effects of spending even a slow day at 8,000 meters is evident in the tone of their voices. The focus of reaching the summit and returning safely seems to be motivation enough to push through the physical discomfort.

So off we go, and as we showed last night, good judgment is the key to success and among the strong points of our team.

-- Freddy Blume, Everest Base Camp



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Photos by Todd Burleson/Alpine Ascents International.

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