Ice Festival 2000

Slawinski Takes Top in "Exhibition"

			»Home »Schedule »Ice Park Info »Photos »Day One »Day Two »Day Three »Action Video

"It's not a contest, it's an exhibition," announcer Malcolm Daly informed the crowd, "but the winner does get a week's vacation in Cabo San Lucas." With a prize like that on the line, the ice guys went for it today, putting together some amazing ice and mixed rock climbing in the name of spirited non-competition. In the end, Raphael Slawinski of Canada combined enough grace, style and power to capture the prize at the Men's Ice Craft Invitational Exhibition.

Jeff Lowe put together a top notch list of judges for the event that read like a Who's Who of alpine climbing. On hand to grade the competitors were Jack Roberts, Mike Bearzi, Aid Burgess, Eric Winkleman and head judge Mike O'Donnell. Burgess easily won the Dedicated Judge of the Day award for enduring a four and a half hour cold shower while positioned on a spray-ridden ledge behind the curtain of ice, used for the Pure Ice segment. "It's like Purgatory down here," he declared midway through the competition.

	Jared Ogden

Each competitor started out with a pure ice route. Scores were based on artistry, security, efficiency and difficulty. Competitors had three options: a thin ice curtain demanding 180 degree climbing, a stemming combo between two thick pillars, or a very delicate freehanging pillar. Seung Kwon Chung of South Korea was the first to opt for the freehanging pillar, putting together a climb that netted him 4th place in the pure ice segment. Raphael Slawinski chose the ice curtain, climbing from behind the curtain and out its right side for 2nd place on the ice. "It looks horrifying," commented judge Aid Burgess, who had a close-up view of Slawinski. "It's kind of what my worst dreams are about!"

But top dog on the pure ice today was Guy Lacelle of Canada, already renowned for his skill on delicate ice. He chose the freehanging pillar and simply danced up it, schooling the crowd on how to handle such fragile formations. Combining long reaches with precise footwork, he gave the judges an easy decision.

The mixed route crafted by Jeff Lowe presented a different kind of climbing. Dubbed "Arachnid" and rated M8 (Mixed 8), it created a situation of fight or fly. Four climbers, Slawinski, Jared Ogden, Jean-Christophe Lafaille and local favorite Bill Gamble, flashed the route, while the remaining six climbers made it no higher than halfway.

Slawinski was the first to flash the route, putting together an impressive and powerful performance over the course of 18 minutes, ultimately netting him first place on the mixed route. "I didn't think it was that hard," Slawinski declared. "It was all there and it was just a matter of taking your time, not rushing, not committing to anything marginal — a lot easier than last year. Having said that, I’m still really happy and really psyched to have topped out."

	Fasel

Jared Ogden was next to complete the route, opting for a traversing path that at one point set him up for a potentially nasty fall. The crowd waited with baited breath. Fortunately, Ogden completed the tenuous traverse which put him back on route. He finished in twenty-two minutes. "I've been coined to be the adventurer of the day," joked Ogden, "because I went far off from where everyone else went. It looked easier over there. I guess people were afraid that I was going to slam into the rock, but I didn’t fall, which is a good thing."

After Ogden's extended foray, speed demon Jean-Christophe Lafaille of France smoked up the route in a mere twelve minutes, displaying the speed climbing prowess that has earned him numerous quick ascents of difficult Himalayan faces.

Bill Gamble, the last competitor of the day on the mixed route, faced probably the toughest conditions of any of the climbers. Unlike sport climbing competitions, where each climber is assured of being able to climb the route in precisely controlled conditions, ice climbing competition routes are of a more ephemeral nature. The first climber on a route will have virgin conditions, while the last climber must face beat-up ice and fractured rock.

Despite ice damaged by the competitors before him, Gamble took it all in stride, taking a very direct line through the route and using his tall stature to bypass the more rotten sections of ice. "The top was a little rotten," said Gamble modestly, "but I just had to reach bigger and get a little better ice." His creativity and perseverance netted him 2nd place on the mixed route and 2nd overall in the competition.

At the end of the day, Slawinski's 2nd place in the Pure Ice segment and 1st on the mixed route earned him the top spot and a week in Cabo. Of course, with tropical conditions prevailing here right now, he’ll probably postpone it until the weather chills out again.

Results, January 15

Pure Ice & Artistry
1. Guy Lacelle			CAN
2. Raphael Slawinski		CAN
3. Bill Gamble			USA
4. Seung Kwon Chung		KOR
5. Jean-Christophe Lafaille	FRA
6. Jared Ogden			USA
7. Sean Isaacs			CAN
8. David Fasel			SWI
9. Scott Decapio		USA
10. Miles Smart			USA

Gymnastics, Power and Vision Sport Mixed Route
1. Raphael Slawinski		CAN
2. Bill Gamble			USA
3. Jean-Christophe Lafaille	FRA
4. Jared Ogden			USA
5. Guy Lacelle			CAN 
6. Seung Kwon Chung		KOR
7. Sean Isaacs			CAN
8. David Fasel			SWI
9. Scott Decapio		USA
10. Miles Smart			USA

Combined Mens Ice Craft Invitational
1. Raphael Slawinski		CAN
2. Bill Gamble			USA
3. Guy Lacelle			CAN
4. Jean-Christophe Lafaille	FRA
5. Jared Ogden			USA 
6. Seung Kwon Chung		KOR
7. Sean Isaacs			CAN
8. David Fasel			SWI
9. Scott Decapio		USA
10. Miles Smart			USA