Miles Smart's Climbing Resume
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SEE ALSOYosemite: Classics
For the Rest of Us
1st Ascent
Black Pyramid
Cruising the Zodiac
Chamonix: To Climb
or Not to Climb
Here are some of the climbs Smart has nailed:
Colorado and Utah:
Solo ice climbs:
• El Cap: 16 ascents by 13 routes
Yosemite Valley Speed Climbs:
On-sight solos on long Valley free climbs:
Canadian Rockies (with Bart Paull):
In Yosemite
• Mt. Rundle Trilogy - Sea of Vapors WI5+
• The Replicant - V WI5+
• T2 - 5.9 A2 WI7X - 3rd ascent
• Curtain Call WI6
• Pilsner Pillar WI6
• Polar Circus WI5
• Octopussy - M6+ - Vail
• The Fang - WI6 - Vail
• Bridavell Falls WI6 - Telluride
• Ames Ice hose - WI5
• The Seventh Tentacle M7
• Secret Probation M7
• Cracked Canyon Ice Fall WI5+
• Ames Falls WI4 - solo
• Ridged Designator WI5 - solo
• Stairway to Heaven WI4 - solo
• Louise Fall - WI4+
• Professor Falls - WI4
• Carlsber Column - WI5
• Carl's Berg - WI5
• Icy BC - WI5
• Deeping Wall - WI5
• Deeping Wall Direct - WI5+
• Stairway to Heaven - WI4
Their first major wall route was at The Titan in Utah, Sun Devil
Chimney, 5.9
A3+. They ticked off other hard climbs including climbs in the Fisher
Towers
and numerous routes in Castle Valley. A memorable trip in the Cascades
Smart
recalls, "We climbed three routes on Snow Wall in 8 hours (including
descents): Iconoclast, Orbit and Outer Space (23 pitches). It was one of
my
first flings with speed climbing."
• Disorderly Conduct VI 5.0 A4 (1st ascent),
• Native Son V1 5.9 A4+ - (3rd solo)
• Wyoming Sheep Ranch VI 5.10 A5
• Lost in America Vi5.10 A4
• Iron Hawk VI5.10A4
• Zodiac VI5.10 A2+ 7:04 - holds the record
• Tangerine Trip VI5.10 A3 11:56 - holds the record
• Aurora VI 5.9 A4 23:55 on-sight and holds the record
• South Face of Column V5.10 A1 in 2:27
• Leaning Tower West Face V5.10A1 in 3:34 on-sight
• The Nose VI5.11 A1 in 9:27 on-sight, 2nd ascent was done in 7:47
• The Salathe VI 5.11 A1 in 12:10 on-sight
• Sunkist VI5.10 A3+ in 26:55 on-sight
• The Reg Half Dome in 5:31 on-sight
• The Prow V 5.10 A1 in 10 hours - solo on-sight
• Widow's Tears V WI5+XX (first ascent since '84) April 99
• Commissioners Buttress II 5.9
• South Face of North Dome III 5.9
• The Nutcracker - II 5.8
• Snake Dike - III 5.7
• The Royal Arches III 5.7
• Reeds Direct - I 5.9
• Reeds Regular - I 5.9
• Braile Book - III 5.8
Smart's Cascade Mountain ascents are too numerous to name. However, he
holds
the record for the fastest ascent of Girth Pillar V5.11 and the West
Ridge of
Mt. Stuart III 5.7, he soloed in 5:50 car to car.
— Jane Bromet, MountainZone.com correspondent