Shishapangma: 1999 American Ski Expedition

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Hans Saari


								Hans Saari thrives on sickly steep skiing and has made a number of first descents in North and South America, including new lines in Montana and in Wyoming's Teton National Park. His experience in skiing terrain over 50° in variable, high alpine, conditions will certainly fortify the strength of the Shishapangma Expedition.

Known for his bold ski descents, Hans Saari has skied several cutting edge lines in Montana, including the Sphinxter, the Beckey Couloir and Catch a Fire. He recently repeated the Hossack-MacGowan route on the Grand Teton, thought to be one of the most difficult descents in North America. He has skied the Gargoyle in La Grave France and the Northwest Couloir of the Pfeiferhorn in Utah.

Artesonraju
In 1998, Saari was a part of the Andes Steep Descent Expedition, an exploratory ski adventure in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. He skied a first line on the northwest ridge of Tocllaraju (6034 meters) and the classic southeast face of Artesonraju (6020 meters). These unique descents were on extremely steep terrain, up to 60°, with high-altitude conditions. This expedition was unusual in that it combined difficult skiing with filmmaking, and resulted in the movie, "Altitude."

Saari rock and ice climbs year round. He recently helped establish Rocket Boy (5.10+, WI 6+) in Hyalite Canyon. Saari currently guides for EXUM Mountain Guides in Jackson, Wyoming and has Wilderness First Responder first aid certification. He graduated from Yale cum laude in 1993.

When he is not climbing, Saari enjoys writing and has written for Climbing, Couloir and Rock & Ice magazines and has a feature on the way in Blue magazine. Saari lives in Bozeman, Montana.

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