Updates From Everest Tumpach The End Monday, October 27, 1997 Kathmandu, Nepal Well, everything has to come to the end, including LeBlanc EVEREST EXPEDITION. We arrived back to beautiful KATHMANDU yesterday afternoon via Russian helicopter. Our unscheduled second half of the Expedition to EVEREST from the SOUTH -NEPALI side, was a one-of-a-kind experience I can write the "Best Seller" about—HITCH HIKING to EVEREST. What possibly could go wrong, DID, but my determination and my desire to get there got us there, but unfortunately because of many delays beyond our control we arrived a little too late to get the chance to go for the SUMMIT ATTACK from the SOUTH COL. From THYANGBOCHE to NAMCHE BAZAR was the smoothest part of our EXPEDITION. The trail was easy and the YAKS knew they were close to the end of their journey. We got to NAMCHE by 5pm and went straight to the THAWA LODGE. I always stay there and it is located on the main street of NAMCHE—there is only one street in NAMCHE, so you cannot miss it. The street was full of tourists and passing trekking groups of YAK and ZOPOIK caravans. As we were coming downhill from the North, our caravan was again the center of attention because of the corporate flags each YAK and porter carried. If you ever go to NAMCHE I recommend THAWA LODGE because the lady of the house makes the most famous cinnamon buns in the KHUMBU REGION. We unloaded the bags and said goodbye to the YAK man. Things went TOO SMOOTH to be true and I remembered my parents saying, "IT is always quiet before the storm," but I tried to dismiss that thought because we had had our share of BAD LUCK. Our next task was to find three porters to take over the job of the two YAKS. My Sherpa informed me that he would find some without a problem because there are many porters looking for a job. As we were discussing it, we were approached by a young man who offered to let us use of his two ZOPOIKS—a half breed between YAK and COW. They are known for their easy-going temperament and they are easier to control than the YAKS. After we negotiated the FEE—from 2000 Rupees down to 1000, we agreed to meet at 8am. From Namche to LUKLA is a, downhill, six hour walk then the last half hour, from CHEPLUNG, is an uphill, rough trail to LUKLA. The morning came; the ZOPOIKS showed up and we loaded them up and the trouble started all over again. I instructed my Sherpa to explain to the ZOPOIK man to wait for us because I had to finish my breakfast and pay the bill. The language barrier is the biggest problem here in small towns or villages. Because of the the way of thinking of Nepali people, if you tell them that you are filming the Expedition and you need the ZOPOIKS to go together, they very politely answer 'OK' and give you a big smile and you leave them with the assurance that everything is OK—WRONG. We finished breakfast and a half hour later we said goodbye to my friend in THAWA LODGE. CHAVI, my cameraman was ready to film a new episode of our journey from NAMCHE via ZOPOIKS. When we got out from the lodge, we could not see our ZOPOIKS and, for a moment, I thought they were behind the corner. One of our porters was sitting outside so the Sherpa asked him, 'where are the ZOPOIKS?' His answer was very simple, 'THEY LEFT a half hour ago, right after you went back in.' Well, here we were a few minutes earlier discussing how interesting the journey is with different animals and the DAMN Zopoiks are GONE WITH THE WIND; down the long hill towards DUTH KOSI RIVER. I sent the one porter after them with the instruction TO RETURN to the LODGE. We waited and two-and-a-half hours later they returned. The Zopoik man was not happy (and neither was I) and wanted extra money. He complained all the way to next village of JORSALE. By 6pm, we reached village of PAKHDING and it started to get dark. By this time the ZOPOIK's speed slowed down to one half of the original and, at that speed, we had four more hours to go to reach LUKLA. By 7pm, it was so dark we had to use the head lights for the Zopoik to see the rough trail. We reached LUKLA at 9pm and as we walked into the "MERA LODGE" it started to rain. The tickets were ready for us and reservation confirmed by the owner of the lodge; that was smooth for a change. The next morning we had to be at the airport by 8am and hoped the weather would be good and clear so the planes could fly . One of the biggest problems flying from LUKLA is the weather. Many times the tourists get stuck there for several days. This time of year, the weather in KHUMBU is supposed to be nice with blue skies. Unfortunately, this year the trekkers do not have it like they used to; many do not see the mountains from KALA PATAR. We hired five porters to take our bags to the Airport, only 500 meters from the hotel. The weather did not look good; it rained all night and the clouds were very low. The elevation of Lukla is 12,200' and the gravel runway is the steepest in the WORLD with a 16 degree incline. Our airplane was the first to arrive on time and we were scheduled for the second turn around. So that put us for departure at 11 am. Why did we have to be at the airport at 8 am? Ggood question, but that is how they do things here; time to NEPALIS has no meaning. CHAVI was filming the take-off of the fist flight and, as the plane went about 100meters down the steep runway, something went wrong. We heard noise coming out of the left engine and the plane had to make an emergency STOP, almost over-shooting the steep runway. Then he taxied back to the so-called terminals, a couple of wooden shacks. Chavi and I were asking each other what else could go wrong. We had to be in Kathmandu that day because our flights back home were leaving on October 26. All the other flights out of LUKLA by helicopter were booked weeks ahead because of the busy trekking season. Thanks to DAWA, who works at the airport, we were somehow able to get on the next helicopter flight. Later we learned that they removed two people to get us on. As they say, 'It is not WHAT YOU KNOW, but WHO YOU KNOW.' In the meantime, the clouds were closing in; it did not look good. We spent all morning in the restaurant waiting to hear the helicopter. Eventually it came and we were on our way. Normally the flight takes 30 minutes; this flight took 57minutes because the pilot had to make a detour due to heavy clouds. That is our story—with a HAPPY ending. WE are coming home with all our fingers, toes, ears and nose and no frostbite as happened to the SINGAPORE EXPEDITION to CHO OYU. Most of all, I am looking forward to being with my girlfriend and seeing my daughter, whose 21st birthday is today. Bye from GEORGE. — George Tumpach PREVIOUS UPDATE | UPDATES HOME