George underestimates the speed of a Yak on a glacier and ends up staying in Pheriche without his bags. The expedition meets up with Hans Kammerlander, whose team was unable to summit Nuptse due to poor weather.
After Many Trials, Team Makes Base Camp
Tuesday, October 21, 1997
(Base Camp, Mt. Everest)
George and his cameraman, Chavi, get some great photos inside the Khumbu Icefall after finally making it to base camp where they learn the Korean Team may have successfully summitted. On arrival, he said "We had good weather for a few minutes."
What Can Go Wrong, Will
Saturday, October 18, 1997
(Pangboshe, Nepal)
George missed time waiting for his Sherpa and four porters who were supposed to be a day behind, but had been delayed when whether prevented flying out of Lukla. While waiting, he hired some yaks, but they ran away.
Keep On Trekking
Friday, October 17, 1997
(Periche, Nepal)
George expects to arrive at the south side base camp tomorrow after having to abandon his north side attempt due to severe weather. Today, George visited the Italian Research Center, also know as the "Pyramid," where "until this year, the tourists were not welcome."
Heading Toward The Khumbu Icefall
Wednesday, October 15, 1997
(Thyangboche, Nepal)
Arriving in Thyangboche, George learns from the French that three teams remain at Everest base camp, all intent on summiting Lhotse. But the prognosis is grim as climbers battle severe weather. Although the Icefall is still passable, it's another two-and-a-half days away.
Trekking To The Other Base Camp
Monday, October 13, 1997
(Syangboche, Nepal)
En route to base camp, George has taken a helicopter to Lukla and then to Syangboche. Chongba, the Sherpa, is walking from Lukla, where he is picking up porters to help ferry the expedition gear to base camp. A cinematographer from the Catalonian team has come along from Kathmandu to film the trek and climb.
Rebuffed by the North Side? Try the South
Thursday, October 9, 1997
(Kathmandu, Nepal)
Three days after his last dispatch, George is in Kathmandu and has some surprising plans: go back to Everest. He and a Sherpa are going to try to join one of the two teams still at base camp on the South side of the mountain, in Nepal. The saga continues...
The Last Chance
Monday, October 6, 1997
(Everest North Face advance base camp)
Back at advance base camp, George recounts the story of his team's summit attempt that began on Friday. He and a Sherpa spent a harrowing, sleepless night on the North Col after a sudden storm curtailed the climb. "The dream to reach the summit was over because of this storm. I knew it
but until now, I did not want to come to terms with it."
Progress Halted By Weather
Friday, October 3, 1997
(Everest North Ridge, 25000 feet)
Lawrie Godin writes that George called in from 25000 feet where he is waiting out the weather with a Sherpa. The snow and wind conditions presently are too severe to continue higher up the mountain.
Storm Hits Mountain
Wednesday, October 1, 1997
(Everest North Face advance base camp)
Lawrie Godin, George's fiancee, writes that she received a brief call from George at advance base camp in the midst of an unexpected storm. His expedition, now the only group left at ABC, has little choice but to wait out the weather.
More Climbers Try For Summit
Tuesday, September 30, 1997
(Everest North Face advance base camp)
Parts of several expeditions are leaving early tomorrow morning for the North Col. George may ascend later, depending on the conditions radioed back by the climbers arriving at the col. Weather predictions from Spain and England seem to agree that the winds will die down somewhat for a couple days before returning to their intimidating recent strength.
Tent Blown off North Col
Monday, September 29, 1997
(Everest North Face advance base camp)
The Colombians and Catalonians are now packing up and leaving.
Winds on the North Col were so high on Sunday that a tent was blown off:
"It was a great scene to watch it fly like a helicopter until it
crashed at 8000 meters."
Climbers Turned Back
Saturday, September 27, 1997
(Everest North Face base camp)
Two climbers, a Swiss and a Sherpa, make it within two hours of the summit but are forced back because of the late hour. George feels that summiting would be an important psychological boost for other climbers, who have been discouraged by the lack of success this season. This afternoon he's planning to return to advance base camp to rejoin his Sherpas.
Dave Breashears Visits Base Camp
Friday, September 26, 1997
(Everest North Face base camp)
Yesterday cinematographer David Breashears, known for capturing an Everest expedition on IMAX film last year, dropped by base camp while working on a film about trekking in Tibet. The weather at base camp is the best in three weeks: "the British team
ran around the camp in shorts like they were on a Mexican beach."
Mallory
Wednesday, September 24, 1997
(Everest North Face base camp)
In the words of the Chinese liason, the winds up above are "unbelievable, it is howling on the top like every Chinese army helicopter was landing on Everest." Several teams are nonetheless planning to return to ABC tomorrow. A yak-caravan dog, nicknamed "Mallory," stayed on with the teams; George reports that she even joined climbers who ascended the North Col.
Strong Winds
Tuesday, September 23, 1997
(Everest North Face base camp)
Lenticular clouds — rarely seen except above large mountains — are visible over Everest, indicating that the winds may have topped 100 mph. Since climbing is not an option, most of the international teams have returned temporarily to base camp.
Returning To Base Camp
Monday, September 22, 1997
(North Face advance base camp)
Because of the predicted bad weather over Everest for the next several days, George has decided to descend to base camp and avoid the progressively dehabilitating effects of altitude at ABC.
Jet Stream Keeps All in Base
Thursday, September 18, 1997
(North Face advance base camp)
The 100mph winds of the jet stream are preventing any teams from climbing.
Altitude Getting to Climbers
Monday, September 15, 1997
(North Face advance base camp)
"The Spanish team doctor also got very sick late yesterday afternoon; to the point that the team members, along with a doctor from Colombian team, had to use a Gamow bag to make her condition stable..."
Bad Weather Delays Summit Attempts
Saturday, September 13, 1997
(North Face advance base camp)
Deep snow and high winds have turned back the first north side summit bids. Teams are waiting in Advance Base Camp or descending lower to rest and wait for a break in the weather.
Probing the Conditions Higher Up
Friday, September 12, 1997
(North Face advance base camp)
Several climbers scouted the conditions higher up and returned today with the word that conditions are good up to the North Col, but that the snow is too deep higher up. The Korean team, after searching for four days, is giving up the search for their climber and is returning home.
Under the Summit
Thursday, September 11, 1997
(North Face advance base camp)
George reports that a three member Spanish expedition, which has been waiting for over a month, plans to leave tonight for a 24-hour push for the summit. Another avalanche, smaller than Monday's fatal slide, swept through the same area yesterday. The Korean team has still been unable to locate their team member's body.
Unstable Weather
Wednesday, September 10, 1997
(North Face advance base camp)
The weather under the North Face is changing erratically, and George can't get enough sun to charge his laptop batteries.
Korean Dies in Avalanche
Tuesday, September 9, 1997
(North Face advance base camp)
The expedition arrives at advance base camp, trailing behind their yak team.
George reports the death of an experienced member of the Korean team. [read our bulletin for details]
Next To the Glacial River
Monday, September 8, 1997
(en route to advance base camp)
George's team is encamped on the way to advance base camp. "The yaks are tied
down all around our tents with constant bell ringing. I do not think
we will have a good night's sleep."
Final Preparations
Sunday, September 7, 1997
(Everest North Face base camp)
The expedition makes final preparations for tomorrow's trip to the advance base camp, four thousand feet up and 22km away. Tourists visiting camp report that the recent bad weather has washed out many parts of the road below.
The Tale of the Other Teams
Saturday, September 6, 1997
(Everest North Face base camp)
Taking advantage of beautiful weather, George visits the Swiss, British, and Spanish base camp, located a half hour away. The Swiss team has already tried for the summit but will make one more push. Several other teams have climbers at advance base camp and above.
Marital Bliss for a Yak Man
Friday, September 5, 1997
(Everest North Face base camp)
During a break in the intermittent rain, George goes up into the hills with the yak drivers to feed the herd. He finds out that marriage works a little bit differently in Tibet...
One Eye of the Official
Thursday, September 4, 1997
(Everest North Face base camp)
"The Everest Casino — highest casino in the world — opened at 10am today..." While acclimatizing in base camp, George writes about the famous Rongbuk monastery and the perils of having a sat-phone in a country that doesn't care much about international treaties.
The Power and Desire
Wednesday, September 3, 1997
(Everest North Face base camp)
On Monday the expedition arrived in base camp, where the team is acclimatizing for several days. George talks about some of the problems that he sees current Everest expeditions encountering and why he's eyeing the world's highest summit.
Travelling Through the Tibetan Highlands
Sunday, August 31, 1997
(Tingri, Tibet)
The expedition arrives in Tingri, a day away from Everest's base camp. As they travel through the Tibetan countryside, George records his impressions of the Tibetan villagers. The signs of Chinese occupation remind him of Soviet oppression in his native Czechoslovakia.
The Chaotic Trek from Nepal to Tibet
Saturday, August 30, 1997
(Through Tibet to Everest Base Camp)
The expedition travels through the two cultures of Nepal and Tibet: sleeping cows in the road, dealing with the Chinese border guards, and getting equipment through a mud slide. "French team lost one pair of climbing boots, and that is a big loss. Poor guy was asking every team if they had spare boots..."
Amateur climber George Tumpach is attempting the North Ridge route on Everest as part of his quest to climb the Seven Summits without oxygen. You can explore his satellite phone email updates below or [click here to learn more about the expedition]. 