1997 World Seven Summits Canadian Expedition

Updates From Everest
George Tumpach
Tumpach
Under the Summit
Thursday, September 11, 1997
(Everest North Face advance base camp, Tibet)

Today we woke up to a beautiful day, right now it is 2:30pm. My batteries are charged so you will get the latest news from ABC EVEREST. All day the temperature is 80F=27-30C. We have no snow at ABC. If it snowed a little bit over night it melted very quickly.

The KOREAN team is still looking for their member/leader. As of now they are unsuccessful. They are saying that they have to find the body and take it back to KOREA. Yesterday the place of the accident was struck again by a smaller avalanche; nobody got hurt.

Today more teams are arriving to ABC. The English team came at noon and two members of the Spanish team just came in. The American team is supposed to come today also, but did not show up yet.

The snow condition for climbing to NORTH RIDGE is very unstable. All the teams are resting. The EVEREST CASINOS moved from BC to ABC and it is very busy. The SPANISH three member professional team want to go for the summit tonight and they want to do it within 24 hours ALPINE STYLE — no camps, no sleeping bags, no tents — JUST GO FOR IT. They have been here since the middle of July. They were here last year from the middle of July till Oct.15 and did not summit because of bad weather.

The ABC camp 6400m=21500’ is located on EAST RONGBUK glacier, directly under the WEST side of EVEREST. We are directly under, and have beautiful view of, the SUMMIT itself and a direct view to NORTH RIDGE -7000m. We can see the route we have to take to get to the top of NORTH RIDGE. We can see the avalanche place.

— George Tumpach

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