1997 World Seven Summits Canadian Expedition

Updates From Everest
George Tumpach
Tumpach
Bad Weather Delays Summit Attempts
Saturday, September 13, 1997
(Everest North Face Advance Base Camp, Tibet)

Today the situation on EVEREST doesn't look good. According to my lead sherpa, JANGBU SHERPA, the situation is very bad. After consulting with sherpas from other teams, they are all saying: Unless the weather above 7,500 meters changes very soon, the situation to Summit EVEREST looks very GRIM.

Today all day we were watching many AVALANCHES coming down from West face of EVEREST and two from North Col wall.

As I told yesterday, the three professional guides from Switzerland lead by Jean Troillet left at midnight for an Alpine style SUMMIT Attack. Also one Japanese climber left solo for the summit, but they all returned after reaching 7,500 meters because of the waist deep snow and high winds.

Here at ABC, the weather is good. During the day temperature is between 75-85 F (30 C.) Right now inside the tent it's 30 F (0 C.) Outside it's 20 F (-5 C.)

Today four sherpas climb to NORTH COL with new supplies for Colombian team and four Colombian climbers tried to reach CAMP 3 (7,800 meters) to see what condition the CAMP is in . Unfortunately they all had to return totally exhausted from fighting the DEEP SNOW and WINDS.

The SWISS three-man team left for the BC and we do not know what is their next move. Rest of the teams just waiting for better conditions. My three sherpas will go tomorrow to North Col to move supplies — tents and food — from ABC.

— George Tumpach

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