|
| |
||
| | |
|
 |  |  |  |
|||||||
 | | | ||||||||
| | |||||||||
| |
|||||||||
 |  | |
|
|||||||
| | |||||||||
| | |||||||||
| | |||||||||
| |
|||||||||
|
 |
Dispatch: Crossing the Shaksgam Shaksgam River, China - Thursday, June 8, 2000
All the stories about the north side of K2 include something about the river crossings. It would be unfair to anyone reading about this adventure to not include something about them here as well. The approach to this side of K2 crosses the Aghil Pass (4715 meters) and drops rapidly into the Shaksgam River valley. This high desert valley (3800 meters), devoid of practically any vegetation, sweeps from the southeast off into the west where it combines with the Yulin River which drains K2's north-side glaciers. From above, the valley appears as a flat gray plain filling the bottom of a deep brown gorge. On closer inspection the plain is filled by cold, braided, swift-moving streams that crisscross the alluvium. Yesterday, we were all in awe of our first views of the big peaks, hidden until we actually entered the Shaksgam valley, where the north sides of the Gasherbrums and Broad Peak come into view. Today we were in awe of the river that fills this valley. The walking is easy; the swimming is not. Today's trek leads us 12km down the Shaksgam river, connecting camps setup in patches of vegetation we call an "oasis." The meandering river swings from one side of the valley to the other, repeatedly blocking further passage. To make progress, one must find a crossing at a place where the water is not too deep, not too wide, and not too fast. On your side is a pair of ski poles for support. Not on your side is the water's speed, temperature, opaque gray color and uncertain depth. The proper technique is to take a deep breath and start walking diagonally, with the flow, across the stream. Focusing on the opposite bank rather than the moving water improves your chances. If you get close to waist deep it is likely you will go swimming. Two members of K2000 did just that. It's especially fun travelling downstream at over 5 miles per hour with a full pack on your back. Today, I was spared the experience of a swim in the just-above-freezing water, but helped somebody out of the water who did go swimming. On further reflection, I think I'll seal my pack and satellite phone up in some plastic before the next river crossing tomorrow. Better yet, I'll stick closer to the camels and try to hitch a ride. At the end of the day when the walking is easy, the mountain landscape grows old, and the last river is crossed, there is time for reflection. The way is cobbled with small stones washed miles from their origins upstream. All of us have taken time out to marvel at their infinite shapes, colors, and patterns. So many have the pattern of a Dzi Stone. When I left for K2, I left each of my family with a Dzi bead to think of me. There are stories and myths on the origins of the Tibetan Dzi Stone: some say they fell from heaven or were transformed underground. However they came to be, they are believed to promote luck and protect the wearer from misfortune. How fortunate is our path so paved. One more day to K2 Base Camp. — Fred Ziel, MountainZone.com Correspondent |
||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||
Email this story to a friend