Updates From Everest Tumpach Mallory Wednesday, September 24, 1997 (Everest North Face Base Camp, Tibet) Today the winds at BC were 40mph; at ABC they were little lower, but above NORTH COL, to 7800m, were 60mph. At the summit, the winds were very strong - over 100mph. Nobody left ABC today. Two SWISS guides — Jean TROILLET and OLIVER RODUIT are supposed to leave ABC tonight to NORTH COL, when the wind subsides. The Japanese guy is leaving BC to ABC tomorrow; I am also leaving BC to ABC tomorrow. The BRITISH TEAM will be leaving to ABC in two days; they are waiting for one more detailed forecast from England, which will determine which way the EXPEDITION will go — UP or DOWN; going DOWN means the team will go back to North Col and pick up their supplies. All that depends on the weather forecast. The other teams, including mine, will not have any alternative. "PAPA" EVEREST, Mr. PINGO, is watching the weather very closely and today his remarks were- "unbelievable, it is howling on the top like if every Chinese army helicopter was landing on EVEREST." The latest news from Mt. CHO-YU is that three groups summited today — two from KOREA and one from the USA. The number of climbers is not known as of tonight. I am sending you a photo of a very famous and brave dog we call "MALLORY," the name of a BRITISH climber who tried in the 1920s to reach Everest, but unfortunately never returned and was never found. This dog came to ABC with the YAK caravan from the nearby village and, because of good food, decided to stay at ABC. The COLOMBIAN team is feeding her the most and they built her a little tent to stay in. Well, as soon as anybody goes to NORTH COL, "MALLORY" joins them. "MALLORY" is a very strong four-legged climber; she climbed solo, without a jumar or other safety device and she always leads the group — UP or DOWN. She reached 7800m- CAMP #4 without any problems and stayed several nights at NORTH COL. When she went with me, she did not want to sleep in my tent, she slept outside and it was not windy, but very cold, -20C. "MALLORY is the story of this year attempts to reach the SUMMIT of Mt. EVEREST. This is all for today. Tomorrow, SEPT. 25, I will be at the intermediate camp, between BC and ABC, and Sept. 26 I will be back at ABC, so I will send you the latest NEWS. — George Tumpach PREVIOUS UPDATE | UPDATES HOME | NEXT UPDATE