Updates From Everest Tumpach More Climbers Try For Summit Tuesday, September 30, 1997 (Everest North Face advance base camp, Tibet) The latest NEWS from EVEREST, ABC-21500’ (6400meters) is that the CATALONIAN, which is the Spanish (but they do not call themselves Spanish under any circumstances) TEAM, five members and four Sherpas, are leaving right now at noon Tuesday, the 30th of September, for NORTH COL. They are joining four BRITISH TEAM MEMBERS. They all will be sleeping tonight at NORTH COL (7000m). The second half of the BRITISH TEAM and myself with my three Sherpas will go to NORH COL tomorrow. I made that decision this morning after comparing the weather forecast we got from BRITISH TEAM, who obtained it from ENGLAND, and the two member CATALONIAN TEAM, who got it last night from SPAIN. Both forecasts are very similar: wind will come down in the next couple of days and then it will increase to very high winds as we have had for the last several days. It is very discouraging to sit here at ABC and just wait, but we have not a choice but to see if we will get the appropriate window opening for SAFE climb and, most importantly, SAFE RETURN. In the past, many Expeditions ended up in tragedy because their time limit ran out and they still wanted to make that LAST ATTEMPT -last try for the SUMMIT, even when the conditions were not right. It is very difficult to explain to someone at the sea level, like in SEATTLE and VANCOUVER, how fast the weather changes; the wind and the temperature change continuously, but let me tell you it happens in MINUTES. The two member CATALONIAN team, who came here to snowboard and ski, are leaving right now to BC; their EXPEDITION FOR THEM. They spent 20 days in ABC and they said they have had enough bad weather on the mountain and they are missing GIRLS. WELL, there is the commitment to their SPANISH CORPORATE SPONSOR. So, they came, everything paid for, THEY SAW, they had a good time, and, after 20 days when COLOMBIAN TEAM had to go because their permit EXPIRED, they decided to go also. I do not think they did what they were supposed to for their Corp. Sponsor, but that is their problem. All I want to show young people by these examples is that if they do decide to do a sport, professionally, please carry that word ‘professional’ right to the point; not just for personal benefit. It is a small world and eventually it will catch up with you, but the bigger damage they will do is close the CORPORATE DOORS for the really professional and dedicated athlete. As I am finishing this E mail, the weather got worse; it has started to snow and the visibility is 100m. The CATALONIANS are still sitting here — sipping on a good COLOMBIAN coffee the COLOMBIANS left behind. Well, the CATALONIANS need to use my "NEC VERSA 6050" computer because their "HP" computer called it quits ten days ago. ACTUALLY, my "NEC computer" is the only one still running on EVEREST. The snow storm outside is very nasty right now, visibility ZERO and HIGH WIND. It is 4pm and the weather calmed down. The snow storm was bad enough for the CATALONIANS and the BRITISH to cancel their climb to North Col until tomorrow morning . They will leave ABC, weather permitting, at 3 am. I will stay here, as I decided early this morning, till the first group reaches NORTH COL and gives us a radio report- HOW IT LOOKS UP THERE. I do not believe in wasting too much energy if the weather is less than 50% good. We all have different ways to do things and my way always paid off for me. I still have all the fingers, toes and ears, so I will keep using my system and experience. But I am always open to learn something new. I learned mountaineering and climbing from my parents and, through the years, I learned a lot from old timers like KURT DEEMDEGER, TROILLET and MESNER; if you can learn from that CLASS of mountaineers, you will achieve your goals as they did. If you think you know better than they do, you will not enjoy life too long. Many great climbers are no longer with us, just for that simple reason. MOTHER NATURE dictates what we will do NEXT and we have to respect that no matter WHO, WHY and for WHAT reason, we are here. One thing is certain --THE MOUNTAIN WILL ALWAYS BE HERE and if we respect nature we can always come back and try again. What will happen next, I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED. — George Tumpach PREVIOUS UPDATE | UPDATES HOME | NEXT UPDATE